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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.